At the top of the pedal stroke, the hip
angle closes up and this causes a
loss of power and also can create
pelvic instability. There is no definitive
way of giving you an exact answer to
your issue without viewing you on the
bike, but a few suggestions could be to
try shorter crankarms (helps to open the
hip at the top of the pedal stroke),
moving the saddle forward in conjunction with cockpit changes (and
reassessing saddle height), and potentially a different saddle that’s correctly
positioned to enhance pelvic stability. If
these suggestions don’t help, seeing a
reputable fit technician in your area is
always a great option.
Is it possible to use an 11-speed
chain on a 10-speed drivetrain? I got
a good deal on some 11-speed SRAM
chains, but I’m not sure if they’ll work.
Both Shimano and SRAM maintained
the same roller width on their 11-speed
chains compared to the 10-speed versions. So yes, using an 11-speed chain
on a 10-speed drivetrain will work fine.
We’ve tried it on Shimano and SRAM
drivetrains and, in some situations, we
feel it even improved the shifting quality.
LOGIC VS. PRACTICAL?
How logical or practical would it
be to buy a cyclocross bike and use it
full-time for the road? I want to do this
because I like the idea of having disc
brakes on a road bike. Most road bikes
that are currently for sale with disc
brakes are all high-end. Most cyclocross
bikes have discs, cost a lot less money
and have more options to choose from.
Can you list some pros or cons to
Patrick, it’s a very practical idea.
Using a cyclocross bike as your full-time road rig gives you more versatility
than what you’re going to find in a road
bike. The ability to run tires larger than
28c without fear of clearance issues is
great if you plan on using it on some dirt
roads or just want the added handling
and comfort of a larger tire. Geometry
does differ between a racing road bike
and a cyclocross rig, with the one difference being the higher bottom bracket
height of some ’cross bikes, which could
be a negative. This puts your center of
gravity up higher and could hurt the
overall stability. What you want to look
for is a bike with a bottom bracket
height comparable to a road bike (
somewhere in the 69 to 73mm range).
If I have a bar drop of more than
6cm, or a reach (tip of the saddle to the
bar) of more than 53cm, and I mean by
just 5mm, my power output drops by
25 percent for a given perceived effort.
I know power drops as you get lower,
but shouldn’t it be more gradual?
Is this just due to my ridiculously short
torso? I’m 73. 5 inches/187cm tall with
a 36-inch/92cm inseam. Or, could this
mean my saddle position isn’t ideal?
Or, is this just how some people are?
Fit technician at Holland Cycles,
Cody Stevenson, responds:
There could be a number of
reasons why your power drops so
dramatically with a perceived minimal
(5mm is a lot in some circumstances)
cockpit change. Having a short torso
and getting aero and powerful is a
difficult combination. Cancellara’s
longish torso helps him to remain
powerful in a low position; Chris
Boardman was also able to achieve this.
When you lengthen the reach or drop
of the bars, you are closing up the hip
angle, and this could be a major contributor to your dramatic power loss. Also,
if the saddle is positioned too far back,
you can create this same problem.
It’s hard to find a
as the bike
on the left.